This model will be available at some time in the future.
The Vikings made these large houses using a wide variety of construction methods - this one has a turf roof and external roof timbers - which allowed for less supporting beams inside the building.
The model is an unpainted kit that includes the "turf roof material". It is 8.5" long., 10.5" wide and 6" tall. The roof lifts off easily leaving ample space inside for sales conferences, HR meetings and wild carousing.
As always, we recommend you paint all of the parts BEFORE assembly...it's much easier that way.
First separate out the two end walls of the Longhouse - the two cross-bracing strips and the two arrow-shaped braces:
Glue the two halves of the end wall that's split in two together - then glue the bracing strips to each end wall as shown:
Locate the two sets of door frame parts:
Glue them around each doorway as shown here:
Locate the two side walls:
Glue the tabs into each of the end walls. Use a small book or something similar to ensure that the corners are square:
Next, take two of the roof support strips (there are 18 of them - and they are all the same) and one of the A-frames, glue together as shown to make a complete "end frame":
Repeat for a second pair to make another end-frame:
It is essential that the glue on the two end frames is fully hardened before attempting the next step. So meanwhile, find the roof beams:
Find the widest of the two long roof beams and the two slotted cross-timbers:
Glue the cross timbers into the long beams where they are notched to fit together. Use something square to get everything straight while the glue sets:
Glue the beam with notches down both sides into the hole at the top of one of the end frames and two of the narrower notched strips into the slots in the end frame. Things will be a bit wobbly at this stage - but they'll soon firm up as we do the next step:
Glue the assembly from the previous step into the slots on the end frame. Make sure that the sloping tops of the cross-beams are really at the top:
Now glue the second end-frame in place - make sure all of the slots and notches are pushed firmly together and that everything seems straight:
Now locate the remaining 16 roof beams:
Glue the middle pair in place first - again, checking that everything is square:
Then fill in the in-betweens:
When you're done, the roof should rest nicely on the walls of the building. DO NOT GLUE!
Take the six thinnest roof timbers and glue them into the slots along the slope of each roof side:
When you're done - check again that all of the slots and cutouts are pushed firmly together...then glue the decorative ridge beam into the slots in the tops of the A-frames:
Locate the two decorative "horns":
Glue them into the notches in the front and back walls, behind the 'Arrowhead' parts:
Next find the four remaining brace parts:
Glue them on top of the last section of the end-frames - they intentionally stick up a little above the main roof timbers. Don't get glue onto the front wall itself or push these new parts too hard against it or you won't be able to remove the roof later.
Finally, we'll apply the turf roof. The moss sheet will tend to 'shed' a bit - so tap on the back of it to remove the loose material. You can spray it with a heavy hair spray to hold it together more firmly - but generally the loose stuff comes off fairly soon.
You'll need to trim these pieces down to about 22cm long by around 12.5 cm wide - then peel off the paper backing:
Then use scissors to create an uneven edge for a few millimeters in on each of the short sides of the rectangle:
Now remove the roof section from the building walls and apply LOTS of glue to all of the beams, and the roof timbers - cover every surface well down to the bottommost beam. Do not apply glue to the legs that stick out past the side of the longhouse:
Then press the turf roof onto the wooden frame - push down well all over it to make sure it's all held down:
Repeat for the other side..and we're...